I hope you had a festive and happy Thanksgiving. We celebrated with Grandma and Grandpa (and all the Chicago cousins and Aunts and Uncles) in Hyde Park on Thursday. Over the years this has evolved into a such a happy and easygoing gathering. Franny makes the turkey and the guests bring all the sides. I woke up on Thursday, skipped the parades on TV and made my bread, sausage and water chestnut stuffing. I just love the simplicity of bringing one pot to the celebration and adding it to all the others on the table (Larry's bread, Carole's sweet potatoes, Rachel's cranberry sauce, Allison's salad). It sounds corny as all get out, but I think this communal approach is very much in the spirit of the original Thanksgiving gathering, no? Only, I don't think the Pilgrim's stuffing (if they even ate it way back then) came to the supper in a much loved Le Creuset after rattling around the back of an old Volvo wagon . . .
No matter, do you know what my very favorite part of the Thanksgiving meal is? It's the gravy. Ah, the gravy. I believe strongly that the gravy can make or ruin a turkey gathering. A so-so turkey, most people are willing to overlook and happily douse some gravy over the top. Ditto for dry stuffing or too lumpy mashed potatoes. But if you have bad or (gasp!) no gravy, well it just doesn't seem like Thanksgiving to me. Of course, I am biased and sentimental since my mom made a righteously good gravy and it was the very last thing that was set on the table. When the gravy appeared, we had the green light to start passing all the other platters.
But the last five or so years we have celebrated Thanksgiving here in Chicago and we have looked to Ira, a second cousin of Ted's (by marriage) to make the gravy at Thanksgiving. And every year, he totally delivers. He melts the butter and then makes a roux with flour and then adds the pan drippings and stirs and stirs and lets it reduce. I am usually standing around, watching, talking, being somewhere between a busy-body and a truly interested witness. As I am typing this, it is dawning on me that I almost always hung very close to my mom as she did the final phases of the gravy, so I bet I like to be by Ira and his gravy making because it is where I was always was as a kid. But to be totally honest, in those first years of the Ira-graving-making, I stood close guard because I wanted to make sure he was doing it "right." Not that I am any whiz at gravy-making, that's for certain. But I am an obsessive observer of how proper gravy is made. That seems to be an annoying culinary skill of mine, I can tell you how it's supposed to be done, even if I haven't made it or haven't stepped forward to make the thing itself.
But back to Ira and the gravy. It's not as rich as my mom's, and it's actually lighter in color, but I also think it has half the fat, which isn't necessarily a bad thing at all. But it is thick and full of the flavor of the bird and so, so good. Plus, Ira is able to make the gravy and entertain the ever changing throngs who zip, bump and waddle through the kitchen, ranging from pets, toddlers and guests who want to chat and even a certain pesky cousin-in-law who insists on peeking at her stuffing in the oven.
Just as you know, things often don't go as planned, especially around the holidays and when you are in the heat of gravy making in a kitchen that isn't yours. And so Ira had his gravy done and was ladling it into the two gravy boats. As he was ladling the gravy in, something happened, I still don't know what, but I came in and the pan was upended and there was a glorious rich, thick wall of golden gravy flowing over the top of the stove (think Niagara Falls) and onto the kitchen floor. Ira was standing there, with his wooden spoon in his hand, sort of frozen and gasping and chewing back words that would make a sailor blush. It really did feel like slow motion the minute I saw it. But then a spoon was grabbed and a wide bowl came into play and we managed to sort of squeegee all the gravy floating on the stove top into the second gravy boat. The gravy on the floor was lost, lapped up by the dogs and an assortment of wet rags.
Ira was blue for a short spell and I so understood why . . . after stirring and making this liquid gold, this humble but beautiful concoction, he had to watch more than half of it literally be washed away. Onto the the floor. But after a little time to breathe and a Zen-like moment to be reminded that we had two very full boats of gravy, his spirits were up and he was ready to enjoy the gathering and the array of dishes. And so we went and piled up our plates with amazing food and yes, poured the wonderful gravy on the parts where we wanted it. Every last drop of gravy from those two boats was devoured. Scoured out in happy gleaning.
That was grace under fire, for Ira and that was good gravy. I am so thankful for that.














